Harley davidson 5 speed transmission problems

I have a 2018 Softail Slim that reached 62,000 miles before the transmission needed to be replaced due to catastrophic failure. Or the "pink death" as some would call it. Mine had a stage 2 torque cam upgrade on stock clutch pack rings.

Among Harley owners this is a widespread issue across all models using the six speed transmission with the most common break point happening in the bearings, not the gears. Leading to debris stripping the splines on the mainshaft; including stock, no stage upgrade builds, and using only syn3 oil.

WHAT CAUSES THIS TO HAPPEN?:

-The stress happens most when lugging the engine in 6th gear for that is past 1 to 1 ratio in the gear box per engine revolution, and on the farthest point on the mainshaft away from the bearing on the other side. This flexes the mainshaft causing the bearing unwanted pressure on it, and is magnified by a loose drive belt. Which is why it is super important to get a belt tensioner tool.

-Another factor is the clutch pack placement inside of the engine, separate from the transmission gear box. (Can someone help elaborate on this?)

-TWIN CAMS: There is a theory that the chain tensioner, that takes up the slack in the primary could be causing too much tension where it doesn't give back. As in when you down shift it won't give back the slack it took away, then you accelerate and the slack isn't given back. Then it multiplies the tension to the drive: https://youtu.be/laDdxNwgkY4 (@2:50). Check for wear!

-Some have reported early warning signs of grinding, or growling happening as a sign of a broken bearing or gears stripping themselves. I'm not sure what this grinding or growling sounds like for good measure. (Anyone got a video?)

-Another warning sign is a crappy gas mileage with a super clean air filter like what happened with mine.

WHAT CAN YOU DO TO HELP PREVENT THIS?:

-The age old "stay in the power" comes to mind. But use 6th gear to hold a speed, above 3,000 rpms on the m8 engines. (Don't drop below 75 mph. If you do use 5th gear instead.) Never use sixth gear to gas it past someone. 5th gear can get you up to 95 easily if you absolutely have to pass someone breaking 20 plus over the limit to avoid collision.

-engine braking/rev matching yay or nay? I have been using it to help me out with saving my brake pads. I personally had to replace my rear rotor twice. First because of a disc lock, second because I neglected to check it myself for three service intervals. Just make sure you never go higher than 4,500 rpms or lower than 2,200 when doing so. Don't lug the engine!

-Burnouts can screw up your transmission: https://youtu.be/eEIx7Bh9wns

-Use a different oil, preferably shock resistant/anti-shock for the transmission. (Red line comes up a lot for a brand name but some are saying belray gear oil. Everyone has their story but no one ever talks about their riding habits.)

-Always check the transmission bolts. They shouldn't have any variance. Have that exhaust removed and check it! Don't be lazy. And don't cheap out. It's just 100 bux for the labor, and 3 dollars for the bearing if you can catch it fast enough!

-There is a clutch pack ring set in the screaming Eagle section of Harley Davidson for m8 engines. I am taking this upgrade avenue with my transmission replacement to help ease the engine torque going into the gear box. It just adds one more ring and fits in the stock basket. 240 bux. If you have a transmission go out you're going into the engine anyway. Why not just add the upgraded clutch pack? It's only an extra 250 tops. Just add it. Or you can add a different clutch basket and ring set.

-Let your bike warm up! Don't push it hard until you've warmed up the bike. Pushing it hard means high revs and pulling fast. Use that clutch to ease in that power into the drive train! Your transmission will last longer the more you ease into it rather than going from 0-100% engagement. The same rule for using the front brake lever should also be practiced with your clutch lever. Slowly release that lever!

-Machine your transmission dogs: https://youtu.be/BApCNsLHu7A

FOR REFERENCE:

The type of riding i did used to be 35 miles per day to and from between 5-6 am and 5-6 pm or 9-11 pm. It switched for a few months to just about 7-10 miles per day. Then it was back to around 35 miles per day to and from. I never had any warm up time and never gassed my engine in a hurry until this year. Only a few times I was hard within 5 minutes of starting the engine. I only ever went about 8 miles per day the last 3 months in a row. I do deliveries on some days so I'm constantly running it on idle while stopped or turning it off if I enter a building.

I use engine braking a lot. At almost every stop light I was using engine braking the last hundred feet religiously, rev matching all the way down and through each gear as to not lug the engine.

I noticed my gas mileage went from about 45 miles per gallon all the way down to 32 on average. I was filling up with gas more and more. It didn't catch my attention until I checked it. I figured: "welp I have a stage 2 upgrade on it." And just wrote it off without investigation.

The last three oil changes I had were performed at another shop using some different oil. I don't remember the name of it but it made switching gears much much easier. And I never had that clunk sound anymore when shifting from neutral to first. And finding neutral became much easier than before.

I hadn't been doing any long trips for a while until I used engine braking down a mountain. That's when my clutch gave out. Or should I say when it broke. My shifter rattled suddenly and then bam... Lost the clutch engagement. I could still shift gears up and down.

I do not believe I had any early warning signs what so ever when this happened.

Why do Harley transmissions clunk?

What year did Harley go to a 6