2003 chevy silverado 2500hd front differential fluid capacity

Maintenance Schedule

The following intervals are based on the assumption that you will be doing the service work yourself, as opposed to paying to have the work done. These are our recommended minimum maintenance intervals for vehicles that are driven daily, and in many cases are shorter than the factory’s recommendations. Because frequent maintenance enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your Jeep, we encourage you to follow our schedule. If you drive in dusty areas, tow a trailer, idle or drive at low speeds for extended periods, or drive for short periods (less than four miles at a time) in below freezing temperatures, even smaller intervals are recommended.

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Maintenance Schedule
Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever comes first
Every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first
Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first
Every 15,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first
Every 30,000 miles or 30 months, whichever comes first
Every 60,000 miles or 48 months, whichever comes first
Every 100,000 miles or 60 months, whichever comes first
How much fluid does the front differential hold?
How much oil does a Silverado differential take?
How often should you change differential fluid Chevy Silverado?

When the vehicle is new, follow the maintenance schedule to the letter, record it in your owner’s manual and keep all receipts to protect the warranty and resale value. In many cases the initial maintenance check is done by the dealer at no cost (check with the service department when you buy the truck for more information).

Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever comes first

Check the engine oil level
Check the coolant level
Check the windshield washer fluid level
Check the brake and clutch fluid levels
Check the tires and tire pressures ( Section 5 )

Every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first

All items listed above, plus . . .

Check the power steering fluid level
Check the automatic transmission fluid level
Change the engine oil and filter

Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first

All items listed above, plus . . .

Check the seat belts
Inspect the windshield wiper blades
Check and service the battery
Check the engine drivebelt
Inspect underhood hoses
Check the cooling system
Rotate the tires
Check the lubricant level in the front (4x4) and rear axles

Every 15,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first

All items listed above, plus . . .

Lubricate the chassis
Check the fuel system
Check the brake system*
Check the exhaust system
Check the manual transmission lubricant level
Check the transfer case lubricant level - 4WD
Replace the interior ventilation filter*

Every 30,000 miles or 30 months, whichever comes first

All items listed above, plus . . .

Change the brake fluid
Replace the air filter*
Replace the fuel filter
Replace the spark plugs (conventional, non-platinum)**
Service the cooling system (drain, flush and refill) (green-colored ethylene glycol anti-freeze only)
Check the steering, suspension and driveaxle boots
Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter**

Every 60,000 miles or 48 months, whichever comes first

Change the manual transmission lubricant**
Change the transfer case lubricant**
Inspect the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
Change the differential lubricant**
Replace the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve

Every 100,000 miles or 60 months, whichever comes first

Inspect/replace the spark plug wires
Replace the spark plugs (platinum type)
Service the cooling system (drain, flush and refill) (orange-colored DEX-COOL anti-freeze only)

* This item is affected by “severe” operating conditions as described below. If your vehicle is operated under severe conditions, perform these maintenance tasks at half the recommended intervals. Severe conditions include the following:

Operating in mostly dusty areas (dirt roads, or off-road)
Idling for extended periods and/or low speed operation
Mostly short trips (less than 4 miles) when outside temperatures remain below freezing

** If operated under one or more of the following conditions, perform these procedures at half the recommended interval

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature is regularly above 90-degrees F (32-degrees C)
In hilly or mountainous terrain
Frequent trailer towing
Frequent off road use or if the vehicle is driven through water

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Post: 04 2500HD differential fluid change questions (Topic#234063)

Cardinal24
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Loc: Traverse City, Michigan
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01-22-10 11:44 AM - Post#1847174

Vehicle 04 2500HD 4x4 with crew cab.

I would like to change the front and rear differentail fluids myself. The oil change place wants $70 for the rear and $50 for the front.

This is what I know right now. Front takes 80w-90 and the rear takes 75w-90 synthetic

I looked under the truck and both the front and rear have fill holes and drain plugs. The rear has a square socket and the front has a standard looking drain bolt similar to the oil pan.

What is the name of this square tool and what size is it?

Can I get this at any auto parts store or do I have to get it at the dealer?

Can I use synthetic in the front as well as the rear?

What is a good brand of synthetic to put in?

Thanks,

Steve
Traverse City, Michigan

Steve H.
Traverse City, Michigan

2004 2500HD Crew Cab

Edited by crdl2415 on 01-22-10 11:54 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

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black95jimmy
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01-22-10 12:02 PM - Post#1847184
In response to Cardinal24

Won't a 1/2 or 3/4" drive fit?

82 Monte Carlo SC, 355 w/Vortec heads, roller rockers, 625 Demon Carb, TRUE DUALS.
2009 Sub.5.3L LTZ 30 Gallons of gas @ $2.28/gal. bla bla bla.

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Cardinal24
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01-22-10 12:47 PM - Post#1847204
In response to black95jimmy

I did not think of that. I will try it.

I did not get fully under the truck just yet. The plan is to do it this weekend and I wanted to get all the stuff together before starting and not having the right tools and fluids.

Thanks,

Steve

Steve H.
Traverse City, Michigan

2004 2500HD Crew Cab

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nstlga
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01-22-10 01:15 PM - Post#1847218
In response to Cardinal24

I put the same synthetic in the front as the rear.
Most parts stores will have it. I think I buy Valvoline.

If your front has never been changed, don't panic. The OE stuff looks pretty sick when you drain it the first time.

He who dies with the most toys doesn't necessarily win, but had more fun getting to the finish line.

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Lynn63
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01-22-10 09:52 PM - Post#1847555
In response to Cardinal24

Steve, the rear drain and side fill plug is 3/8 square and you can use your ratchet wrench for it. Just make sure the recess is cleaned out so the wrench will go all the way into the recess. Otherwise it has a tendency to want to strip out. The front is as you described. The drain plug is 13mm and the fill plug is 15mm. If I might suggest getting some Mobil 1 full synthetic 75W90 gear lube. It is a group 4 man made lube and Valvoline is a group 3 dino lube.

Nothing to be afraid of. I do lots of drive line changes (AMSOIL dealer). FYI - The rear drain and fill plugs will be pretty snug so be prepared
:-)

Feel free to ask any questions. You can even PM me if you would like.

Another Michigander.

Lynn63
63 Impala SS
07 Silverado DMax Classic
99 Venture van

Progress so far...

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BBC-454
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01-22-10 10:17 PM - Post#1847567
In response to Lynn63

That "square tool" is a 3/8 ratchet!!

Josh R.L.
Licensed Automotive Mechanic
1966 Buick Special 2 door
1961 Chevrolet Apache 10 panel van
1995 GMC K2500
2011 VW Jetta TDI

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brian73
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01-23-10 09:06 AM - Post#1847726
In response to BBC-454

I don't know if you will want to do this or not , but to fill the front diff unless you have a pump can be difficult . I used a 3ft piece of 1/2" copper and went through the wheel well just in front of tire.
It fit through the hole and made for almost no spillage . This was a lot less hassle than trying to pour it in from underneath .

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Cardinal24
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01-23-10 01:57 PM - Post#1847901
In response to brian73

Well I just finished the project. I forgot to look for any new posting on the site before
starting.

Everything you guys said was true.

The rear differential fill hole was tough... needed heat and a long handled ratchet to break
it free. Drain plug was easy. There was enough room to fill straight from the bottle.

The front was easy to open and drain. But to fill it I had to use a pump. I have four boats
so I had one from filling all the lower units. It was a hand pump but made the job fairly
easy just slow. I also had to go thru the wheel well to be in a comfortable position for
very long and pump the bottles of lube in.

I did a fair amount of oil spilling. Odd positions and changing multiple bottles was the
main culprit. I would spill far less if I did it again.

I ended up getting Valvoline synthetic. I bought (6) quarts but only needed (5) to do the
job. The rear took (3) quarts and the front took (2) quarts.

3/8” ratchet, 13mm and 15mm wrench and a lot of paper toweling. Both of my boys
(11 and 9) wanted to help so it was a good learning experience for them to.

The oil change place wanted $130.00 to do both the front and the back.

Total time and cost to do it yourself on Saturday:

· 20 min. travel to get oil
· 55.00 for oil (6) quarts only needed (5)
· 30 min to Clean garage floor where your wife parks so you are not laying
in snirt (snow/dirt mix) and saltwater.
· 2.5 hours for the project including set-up and clean up.
· 20 min. travel to recycle oil
· Cost of gas both ways.

I think it was worth the effort but some people might not. Very satisfying feeling when
you are done

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions. It made it an easier job to do.

Steve
Traverse City, MI

Steve H.
Traverse City, Michigan

2004 2500HD Crew Cab

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nstlga
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01-23-10 08:02 PM - Post#1848124
In response to Cardinal24

Glad it worked out. I enjoy doing it myself for the cost factor. The time/mileage is a given.
When done, you know it was done and what you have.

He who dies with the most toys doesn't necessarily win, but had more fun getting to the finish line.

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Shaun_300
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01-24-10 07:45 PM - Post#1848843
In response to nstlga

Yeah the diff fluid changes are really nice to do on the 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks, the rear diff actually has a drain plug and you don't have to pull the cover and replace the gasket when you're done. Don't know why GM doesn't get smart and do this on the half ton rear diffs as well.

GM Certified Automotive Technician

2000 Chevy Silverado RCSB 4.3L 5 speed
Turbo LS6 build in progress! LS6 short block, 317 heads, LS6 intake, Lunati 220/224 .575/.575 112LSA cam, front mount turbo, Nelson Tune

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Lynn63
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01-25-10 03:25 PM - Post#1849350
In response to Shaun_300

They had drain plugs on the 99-02 Tahoes and Burb, but in 2003 GM eliminated about 11 different things and the drain plugs were one of them.

Lynn63
63 Impala SS
07 Silverado DMax Classic
99 Venture van

Progress so far...

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nstlga
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01-27-10 07:55 PM - Post#1851078
In response to Lynn63

Vehicle 04 2500HD 4x4 with crew cab.

He who dies with the most toys doesn't necessarily win, but had more fun getting to the finish line.

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Lynn63
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01-27-10 09:54 PM - Post#1851173
In response to nstlga

All of the 2500HD's I've done have had the drain plug on the rear diff.

Lynn63
63 Impala SS
07 Silverado DMax Classic
99 Venture van

Progress so far...

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How much fluid does the front differential hold?

Fill to the Brim The weight and capacity will be listed in your owner's manual; your differential will usually hold as much as 3 quarts.

How much oil does a Silverado differential take?

Differential Oil Change 2.75 quarts (rear with 9.5” and 10.5” diff.)

How often should you change differential fluid Chevy Silverado?

How Often Should You have the Differential Fluid Changed in Your Chevrolet? Generally speaking, differential fluid should be changed anywhere from every 30,000 miles to 60,000 miles.

chevy silverado 2500hd front differential fluid capacity