2008 nissan frontier camshaft position sensor location

Had to replace my camshaft position sensor after having some issues with hard starting and stalling. If you have the P0345 code you will most likely need to replace the sensor. This is for P0345 which is bank 2 drivers side, bank 1 would give you a P0340 code. This is how to do it. Youll have to follow the pic’s at the bottom, I don’t know how to put them in as I go.
Picture 1.
This is what I used. Stool to get some reach. Code reader, to clear code when done. A flexible head ratchet w/10mm socket, no extension. You might be able to use a regular ratchet with a swivel but may run into clearance problems.
Picture 2.
Start by removing the engine cover.
Picture 3.
The sensor is between the firewall and the eng. Follow the wiring harness to the sensor(circled in red).
Picture 4. Put your ratchet in from the angle shown while feeling for the bolt with your other hand.
Picture 5 and 6.
Pull out the sensor. To remove it from the harness push the green clip down till you feel a click.
Continued:

Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement

Replace the sensor in the reverse order. When connecting the sensor to the harness it may take some effort as the replacement sensor seemed to have smaller holes for the pins. Button everything back up and clear the code and your done took about 30 min. Part was $61 at autozone.

I put this in the wrong section, could someone please move this to the DIY section thanks.

Thanks for the write up. You indicate a driver vs. passenger side replacement. Are there 2 (or more) sensors?

Update: I figured it out...2 cams, 2 sensors. Genius!

I wanted to follow up this post for "the next person" running across this thread... maybe what I went through today will help further

Today the wife and I were coming home from an errand and the truck lost power/acceleration for a few seconds then snapped back to life, throwing the SES and Slip lights like other people have had. Got home and put my ODBII scanner on it (this one, which was $41 after buying online and using code TRT30 and picking it up at the store)) and got code P0340 telling me passenger side sensor was bad (if you got P0341 that means it's the driver side sensor). Advance or AutoZone will pull the code for free if you don't have/want to buy a reader, I just wanted one to have.

So the passenger (bank 1) side sensor (code P0340) is a major pain to get to like mentioned above but here are some more notes

- it's on the back, completely perpendicular from the firewall and even with the flat of the ground, it's a gray rectangular plug with 3 wires going into it, it can be seen if you stand where the hood hinges up and look behind there

- I don't see any reason why the engine cover needs to come off

- Three of us in the neighborhood tried to unplug the sensor first, but we couldn't get it... so I ended up first getting the 10mm off with a swivel extension (there is a wire harness that is right in the way preventing straight shot). It's totally blind to do this, but you can feel where the 10mm is and guide the socket on

- then was able to use one hand to push the center tab in and the other to pull the sensor out

Make sure to put some fresh motor oil around the o-ring for the new sensor and reverse the steps to put back together, although I suggest bolt the sensor back into place THEN plugging in the plug, which is pretty exact fit

I put my code reader on the truck and cleared the code, started up and all was good with a drive around town for 10 mins

We have a 2006 Nismo (4.0 V6) and got the part at Advanced Auto Parts (this part) which was $82.... coupon code TRT30 dropped it down to $57 ordering it online and picking it up at the nearby location 15 mins later

Hope that helps!

Hey, thanks for the write-up! I just joined this forum to figure this problem out and see if it is something I can tackle and save $600 from the dealer. Pulled the code PO340 camshaft position sensor Bank 1. Dealer "recommended" to replace both, but just going to tackle Bank 1 first and test. How hard was this on scale 1-10. I'm not much of a gearhead, but pretty handy with a set a tools and general instruction. Also, have you had any issues using the Advanced Auto Parts sensor ($82) vs. OEM sensor? Any help would be appreciated before going into this. THANKS!

The advanced sensor has worked perfect !

and i just got back from a 1200 mile round trip last weekend with it....

as for scale of 1 to 10, it was on the lower side, best advice i can give is that a wobble adapter is needed to get that 10mm bolt off that holds it in place...

I used an offset gear wrench to remove the bolt holding the censor in.
Now to be perfectly clear, the black or green center piece of the plug slides forward to release and you must manually slide it back to lock it on the censor. Also it's easier to remove the censor with the plug attached, then plug in new one before placing it in the head. It's a little tight back there since the wiring is all attached to suports, but doable. Took me about 35 minutes laying on top of the engine. My wife took a pic of me laying under hood.

FYI. I replaced both cam and the crank sensor all with the auto zone cheapies (though with lifetime warranty). Less than a year later, I'm dealing with bank 1 again. About to go grab a beer and a wrench. If I had to do over again, I'd go either with the new Hitachi's or OEM. Just sayin'.

my drivers side sensor is bad.the only way i can tell is it threw a code and it cranks over about 30 sec before it starts. i can buy both the hitacchi cam sensors on ebay for 20 dollars should i go for it and replace both? and should i change the crank sensor as well? they all have 98,000 miles on them.

My contribution on this:

The Bank 1 sensor is quite hidden and I've seen all kinds of convoluted explanations on how to get it out with a socket, universal, 3 extensions, a cable flex and/or flex-head ratchet as well as taking various components of the engine compartment out.

I fried this sensor on the highway in Virginia with no tools. Stopped at AZ and had them read the code, bought the sensor (although they actually sold me a Bank 2 sensor, more on that later) and a 10 mm combination wrench (also a $5.99 socket set). Anyway, turns out the combination wrench works PERFECTLY if you approach the sensor bolt blindly from center engine (climb into the compartment and feel for the bolt) and the sensor can be changed out literally in several minutes.

Does anyone have any experience swapping out the actual 3-pin wiring harness connector that plugs onto the cam position sensor? I replaced my sensor, but still have the code and dash light. For my '08 the problem started then became more intermittent and now more ever-present, leading me to think I've got a bad/loose wire &/or some kind of corrosion maybe inside the connector. eBay & friends are full of connectors, but I haven't been able to find the clear "buy this part number for that truck" reference. If anyone knows which connector or kit to buy I would sure appreciate the reference. (by the way, it's bank 1 / passenger side /code p340 that I'm dealing with).

Thanks!

Before you do that it might be a better idea to check the continuity of the wires to confirm that that's where the issue is.

Also, the signal plate of the camshaft could be covered with debris. See excerpt from service manual. Was the old sensor filthy?

What brand of sensor did you get?

X2 on Brand of sensor. I going through my issues, I initially replaced the passenger side with a Autozone sensor which promptly failed 2 days later. OEM on this one is the way to go.

As for the connector, my was pretty oily inside. You should clean it with contact cleaner before replacing it.

Hmmm. The original sensor that came out was clean and dry, except for some dust - no big chunks of debris. I did not, however, get a look at the signal plate of the camshaft. Thanks for sending the service manual reference, by the way. By the way, is that something I should be able to do/see without taking off the top of the engine? I've been accessing the sensor via the passenger side wheel well and removing the cowling - seems easier than climbing up on the engine and reaching down blind.

The brand of the sensor might be the ticket. I got the cheapest one on eBay! I will try the OEM version before cutting any wires for a new connector, per my original question. Also, on that point, I'll get with a buddy who's much better with a volt meter than I am to check for continuity - great tip, Thanks!

If the sensor was clean then the plate is probably clean. You can get a cheap ($15) USB endoscope camera to look without a lot of difficulty if so inclined. Get a multimeter from HFT (sometimes they're free, otherwise like 4 bucks) to figure out exactly where the issue is. Checking continuity is easy, set to ohms and you either have resistance or not (number is irrelevant for continuity). Then check the sensors. They could both be OK (or both fried). Testing procedure attached, but again it's a "got it or don't" measurement.

Super helpful. Thanks! ...and, yes, I have the free little red multimeter from HFT so I'll put it to use. The diagram is great - thanks again.

camshaft sensor replace

when i first bought my truck used the drivers' side cam sensor went out, i was told it was a warranty item but i would have to bring it in for them to fix it. that was a 600 mile trip plus two days in a hotel. went on ebay for 30 bucks i got three sensors (crank, two cam sensors), replaced the one i needed two years ago still working fine. took about 1 minute with a ratcheting 10mm wrench.::smile::

I did check and found continuity in the old (original?) sensor that I had removed. I also am still getting the intermittent stalling/loss of power and the "slip" light on the dash, but haven't been stranded yet. I have received but not installed a replacement quick-connect plug for the wiring, but still have to check continuity on the wires to see if that is really an issue before cutting anything. A buddy suggested trying to get a picture in there with my phone - if that doesn't work I might get the endoscope to see if there is any crud.

My contribution on this:

The Bank 1 sensor is quite hidden and I've seen all kinds of convoluted explanations on how to get it out with a socket, universal, 3 extensions, a cable flex and/or flex-head ratchet as well as taking various components of the engine compartment out.

I fried this sensor on the highway in Virginia with no tools. Stopped at AZ and had them read the code, bought the sensor (although they actually sold me a Bank 2 sensor, more on that later) and a 10 mm combination wrench (also a $5.99 socket set). Anyway, turns out the combination wrench works PERFECTLY if you approach the sensor bolt blindly from center engine (climb into the compartment and feel for the bolt) and the sensor can be changed out literally in several minutes.

Thank you thank you thank you! It was so much easier going over the top. My only contribution to future folks is let your engine cool before climbing on top and reaching back there. That and lay down some cardboard or a blanket so it’s easier on your chest.