How to change alternator on 2003 mazda protege

  • #1

Mine is 2002 Protege (2.0L), could anybody tell me how to replace the alternator with pictures to show the detail, thanks very much.

  • #2

I've doe.it the hard way. I'd like to see the right way. Anyone?

  • #3

Bump. I would like to know that also.

  • #4

Bump!!!!!! I cant get mine out!!!!!!!! Thats what He said LOL

  • #5

you have to remove the right front axle . then drop alternator out from the bottom. That is the way we do it at the shop.

pcb

The Diagram Dude

  • #6

^ Are you sure ??? It doesn't mention that in the FSM,.. Is it just easier for you guys with a proper shop or do you have to remove the axle ?
I've never removed mine,.. just adjusted it and I could reach all the bolts (timing belt replacement) I had all but the bottom bolt off.

It's really tight in there but I don't remember if there is enough room to fit past the axle once all the bolts are off.

Last edited: Mar 15, 2013

  • #7

You can easily reach the bottom bolt from underneath the car without removing anything.

pcb

The Diagram Dude

  • #8

You can easily reach the bottom bolt from underneath the car without removing anything.

Yea I loosened it to rotate the Alt but I didn't remove it so I thought maybe it was trapped in there.

I remember doing my brother-in laws accord years ago and I had it completely disconnected but I couldn't get it out of the engine bay,... top or bottom.

  • #9

Yea I loosened it to rotate the Alt but I didn't remove it so I thought maybe it was trapped in there.

I remember doing my brother-in laws accord years ago and I had it completely disconnected but I couldn't get it out of the engine bay,... top or bottom.

Hmm last time I replaced mine I was also replacing the intake manifold so I was able to easily get it out from the top, im pretty sure its doable with the IM in place.

  • #10

Hmm last time I replaced mine I was also replacing the intake manifold so I was able to easily get it out from the top, im pretty sure its doable with the IM in place.

I've read that; just make sure to take the cruise control out of the way. Not as fun job but I got er done!

  • #11

I've read that; just make sure to take the cruise control out of the way. Not as fun job but I got er done!

What's cruise control?

  • #12

You can reach all the bolts with out removing anything. However, in order to remove the alternator from the bottom of the vehicle, you must remove the right front axle.(some one may prove me wrong, but that's the way we always do it on Mazda Proteges)
I guess it can be done from the top, but you have to remove CC and/or PS Bracket,etc..

Posted By: Tech2 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: ROBERTSON TIRE CO INC
Date: 10/6/2009 11:04:46 AM

After step 5.

6. Remove bolts for engine to manifold support bracket and remove bracket.

7 Remove the 4 steering gear mounting bolts.

8. Move steering gear as necessary to remove generator.

Posted By: Tech2 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: COTTMAN TRANSMISSION CTR
Date: 10/12/2009 2:01:30 PM

pulled cv axle instead, worked great

Posted By: Tech2 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: BIG A
Date: 8/10/2010 2:22:24 PM

Lower exhaust off down a few inches and the alt will slide right out

Posted By: Tech2 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: NORMANDALE BP
Date: 10/7/2010 12:54:55 PM

remove adjuster bracket-one bolt and cc module,p/s hose brackets and it can be wiggled out through the top-beat flat rate

Posted By: Tech2 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: ADVANCED AUTO SERVICE
Date: 7/27/2012 10:25:07 AM

remove drive axle. works out better

Posted By: Tech2 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: WILLOWWOOD SERVICE CENTER CROWN
Date: 12/19/2012 7:19:50 AM

I removed the three bolts that hold the cv axle support bearing, that gave enough room to pull out slightly and shift the axle around and wiggle out the alternator. I just pulled the axle slightly out of the trans.

Posted By: Tech2 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: PREMIER REPAIR
Date: 3/12/2013 8:10:12 AM

yeah pull bolts for the carrier bearing on the cv shaft you can wiggle it out super easy

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Last edited: Mar 16, 2013

  • #13

sorry if my post was unclear, I have a FSM online and it allows technicians to leave tips on jobs and proceedures in order to pass along advice to other tech's. It a great feature. PCB you are correct, The FSM says nothing about Alt/generator removal other than un bolt it and take it out. Steps 1-5 are:
1. Disconnect Negative Battery Term.
2. Disconnect Gen/Alt Terminal "B" Wire
3. Disconnect Gen/Alt Harness Connector
4. Remove drive belt
5. Remove Gen/Alt Mounting bolts.

Then go back to my previous post and read all the technician tips on removal.

  • #16

Yes I know.. msp's dont have that.

pcb

The Diagram Dude

  • #17

If I have to do it , I'm gonna go for this approach,... it sounds the easiest.

Posted By: Tech2 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: WILLOWWOOD SERVICE CENTER CROWN
Date: 12/19/2012 7:19:50 AM

I removed the three bolts that hold the cv axle support bearing, that gave enough room to pull out slightly and shift the axle around and wiggle out the alternator. I just pulled the axle slightly out of the trans.

Posted By: Tech2 Flag Post For Monitor Review
Shop: PREMIER REPAIR
Date: 3/12/2013 8:10:12 AM

yeah pull bolts for the carrier bearing on the cv shaft you can wiggle it out super easy

  • #18

I just replaced my alternator today, suprise suprise! All I did (03 proto LX) is removed the cruise control bracket and ac hose bracket, swing them over the engine..and I was able to get to the back of the alternator and the bolt just fine.

Took me about an hour to R&R the alternator.. about 45 minutes to remove the old one due to corroded bolts and about 15 min to re connect everything and the battery.

You dont have to remove anything. just have to twist the body of the alternator a certain direction and it will fit in between the strut tower and intake. dropping the new alternator in place is alot easier.

  • #19

thats what Im talking about. I have a strut bar in the way. Other than that no problem!

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